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RE: [RC] [RC] Re-doing saddle riggings - Laurie Durgin

I also emailed the manufactuer--they said what an unusual question, call us and talk to our saddle fitter. They thought , putting the channel at an angle wouldn't work, as the stitching wouldn't hold. (will call then when they get up)
My horse has VERY well sprung ribs even when not fat! So all girths go to his elbow which is the narrowest part of his underside. Now that I look back at pictures his saddles always wanted to creep up his neck. My saddle has only one flap. It has a channel just wide enough for the billets to go down the center of the flap underneath the flap. It is sewn to the flap.It fits us both well otherwise and I rode him in it for a year up and down hills for up to 3 hours. One 4 hr.ride.Even sweat patterns. It had been fitted to his wither tracing , body type etc. I Have to use a crupper and breastplate or have problems with all saddles rolling or creeping up his neck.(5 saddles , both western and english). I lifted the billets out of the channel(at the top , it doesn't go all the way to the top) I pried the flap away without taking anything apart. I too FOUND CARPET TACKS THAT WERE 'LOOSE"!! only going through the nylon part of the billet. I removed them with a needle nose as they weren't connected to anything and could come through the foam cushion on the bottom .They billets seem to be connected to the tree further inside. I COULD take off one of the foam panels and get a real good look, BUT then it would have to be restiched at the pommel or cantle. Not sure yet whether I want to commit to having to then have to restitch it. I'd hate to ruin it or cost myself extra $$ I don't need too.
I am a 'why not person', so improving this mouse trap, so it doesn't interfere with his shoulder seems like an improvement. As I walked beside him, I put my hand under the front of the pommel and I could feel his Scapula rotating under the front about 1-2 inches.I wonder if this is why he 'tilts' goiing around curves (trying to do dressage circles), and canters so up and down, and falling apart (in the ring, but not so bad on the trail).I suspect it interferes perhaps in a circle. . . and he started blowing himself up when girthing, though I hav egone to dling it in stages, but I do it tight, cause the 'roll' factor, ad nauseam. . . .


$$ is an issue, and having to save for a year to try another saddle isn't what I need to hear. While researching saddle fits , it seems like the only other option may be a short treeless saddle (he has about 23 inches for a saddle , and while I am average build and height , I have thighs from running and swimming and take a western 16 or an 18 in english.
Or maybe I could 'make my own ' treeless saddle . I have a sewing machine and an AWL. . . .

Laurie,I can't follow what you are talking about doing.However,in a general way,I suggest that rigging modification is a VERY fertile field,and that all saddle rigging designs are compromises;if your current rigging is causing you problems,don't let the idea that "they MADE it that way" hold you back.They may very well have"made it that way" for no good reason at all.I did some billet replacements years ago on some name brand "English" saddles,and was repeatedly shocked to see that the canvas or nylon strap the billets were sewn to was connected to the tree with LITTLE SHORT CARPET TACKS,half of which were loose or missing.(We would put 'em back on with short stainless steel wood screws) Please look at the "mono" flap-rigging of the Synergist,Equinox,and Orth-Flex (Express lite)saddles.That's the way to go,in my opinion,and I have put such riggings on my own saddles,but bear in mind that any rigging will carry the saddle with it fore and aft as it seeks out the narrowest part of the horse's barrel,so some-trial and error may be necc

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