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Re: [RC] Trailer floor - Ed & Wendy Hauser

1. I would not use synthetic lumber.  I don't believe that they are strong enough, especially with impact.  I could be wrong though, check web siles and trailer manufacturers and you may find that some is.  I'll guess that really strong synthetic boards are a bit more in price.  They also may need supports closer together than wood.
2. It is possible that the rot is confined, but I doubt it.  Take a screw driver and poke and hit the floor near the sides and board ends etc. looking for rotten spots.  You most likely will find some.
3. I have used treated tongue and groove 2x6's with good effect to replace trailer floors.  The first one I did was fine 15 years later when I sold the unit.  If you live in the right area of the country, oak boards may be available locally at a reasonable price.
4. If you rip the floor out, you will probably find that there is rust on the steel under the boards.  Wire brush, power brush, or sand to get as much as you can get off.  3M sells wheels that fit on drills that work great for this.  (sorry, even though I worked on the product 20 years ago I can't remember the name.)  When you have the rust off, brush prime and brush paint with rusty metal paint.  The extra work is well worth it.
The wood is not that spendy, and the craftsmanship required is not that great.  Just follow whatever was done by the OEM.
Ed & Wendy Hauser
2994 Mittower Road
Victor, MT 59875

[RC] Trailer floor, Jena Williams