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Re: [RC] [RC] Truck (or What can we do?) - Paul Latiolais

Okay, You folks are really scaring me with this talk of under weight trucks being dangerous. I can't afford a new truck right now. Oregon is still in an economic slump, which is effecting my bottom line.

I suspect many of us are in the same boat. So, what can we do?

Transmission: I started out with an 87' chevy half-ton which I bought as my "farm" truck to go with my first "farm". When we got horses I started going through transmissions. After the third one, I had them put in a heavier duty transmission (without overdrive) which is still going strong.

Power: Shortly after putting in my second transmission, the State of Oregon informed me that my engine no longer met pollution laws for the Portland Metro area. If I had lived in Burns, it would not have been a problem. So I put in a 350 hp engine. That helped.

Suspension: Not knowing anything about the issues discussed of late, I bought a camper to go on top of my Chevy half-ton. In order to make that work at all, I had to put in a heavier suspension system. It did not cost much.

Tow package: I was so ignorant, I did not know at first that little hitch in the bumper really could not be used for towing anything heavier than a little red wagon. At first I got a 5000 lb hitch which U-Haul put in wrong. After a rear-end accident destroyed that hitch, I put in the more appropriate 10,000 lb hitch, and had a professional do it.

Stability: There was still the stability issue, especially with the camper on top. It is hard to find out what the difference is between a 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton, especially with all of the HD and SD upgrades, but one thing I learned is that although theoretically, you can buy 16" rims for a half-ton, the lug holes don't match and the only 16 rims they make for those lug holes are the real fancy kind, that cost way too much. You cannot buy 15" tires that can be inflated more than 50 lbs. This is important when you have a lot of weight. BUT... you can put on extra wide tires and that really helps stability and brakes. AND they are not too much more expensive. You do have to get a different wheel rim, but you can get inexpensive ones.

Braking: I still am working on that one. I am taking the whole rig into the RV shop next week to see what they can do. I know I can get more sensitivity from the trailer brakes. I have to admit, even as a defensive and "slow" driver when loaded up, I have had a couple of close calls. Going down hill on a main road doing five miles below the speed limit fully loaded, someone in a slow car can just pull out right in front of you, not realizing that your stopping distance is hampered.

Anything else I can do? Does anyone want to "give away" an old safe, running one-ton that would make the roads of Oregon, Washington and (yes I go there too) Idaho safer?

I am not giving up endurance just because it might be dangerous. I ride a horse, for heaven sakes.

-Paul L.

On Monday, December 1, 2003, at 02:45 PM, Deanna German wrote:

Val -

I tow a steel stock combo trailer (2H slant w/ dressing room) and towed 2
horses 6 hours with the destination being at the end of a hilly, hair-pinny
drive. My vehicle is a 2002 F-150 with the same size engine. With one horse,
it's a cinch.


You didn't mention if this vehicle has the heavy-duty transmission, shocks,
and brakes. I think those are very important. So are anti-lock brakes.


I wouldn't rule this vehicle out.

Deanna

--------------------------------

Val wrote:
Quick question for you all.  My husband is looking at
replacing our truck and found a used one.  I'm not so
sure this is a good deal or not...or whether it could
safely haul a 2-horse bp horse trailer carrying 1-2
horses (approx under 1000lbs each).

1994 F-150 Flareside Supercab that was a stepside
short bed.  Has a 5.8L V-8 with tow package and 134K
miles for approx $5K


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