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[RC] Importance of Hoof Balance - Lynne Glazer

My friend and shooting partner Cristy Cumberwork wrote this post on the fuglyhorseoftheday blog today, and I feel this concise info is worth sharing, am sure the content is old news to many of you. Cristy's been riding competitive trail since she was a kid along with her family, they manage rides, and she did take the horse mentioned below to Tevis though before his feet issue had been identified much less resolved. She's the editor of Hoof Print, the NATRC pub. (I'm oversensitive about proper trimming/shoeing anyway, but my own horse's ideally shod feet were nearly ruined while recently on trial for sale, wearing shoes that had only been on for two weeks but that shoer had done everything wrong--it's going to take 3 shoeing cycles to fully restore his fronts, one down, two to go, though he is rideable.)

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For those that are having a hard time with evasiveness while ridden. (Popping shoulders, not wanting to round) You can make sure the horse is physically ABLE to do it first by taking a good long look at their feet. So much bad and undesirable behavior comes from unbalanced feet. Especially long toes and underrun heels and medial-lateral imbalances too. Most of us just love our farriers and assume they are doing the best job....... but how do you really know?


Here's a few clues to look for. Get down at the foot level and look, REALLY look, at the coronet bands from the front. Are they level? If they are tilted then the medial/lateral balance is off and can cause pain (and eventually remodel the bones too, but doesn't take as long as you might think). Are there flares? Usually the pain from medial/ lateral balances are not enough for the horse to show unsound (at first anyway), but still.... ouch, think of the canters, gallops and landing a jump!. Are there any humps or curves in the top of the coronet band? If there is, that is a place where there is pressure pushing the coronet band up.... a spot where the hoof wall needs a wee bit extra trimming or rasping to allow that section of hoof to "drop". Sometimes you can have the foot "leveled" and wait overnight and some of it will drop, telling you exactly where the pressure is and allowing it to be rasped again before shoes are applied. Sometimes all you need is 20 minutes for it to drop.

When you look at your horse from the side, is there any hoof under the cannon bone? If not, the hoof has migrated forward. (this appearance can also be caused by long slopey pasterns, in both cases the horse needs trailers on his shoe to help give support under the cannon bone) Also look for a smooth unbroken line from the pastern joint through the hoof. if that angle is 'broken' the hoof is likely out of balance. The angle of the shoulder, pastern hoof and head should all just about match. I see lots and lots of 'broken back' angles on horses, meaning the angle of the hoof is less than the angle of the pastern and is usually accompanied (and caused by) long toes, underrun heels. (X-rays will tell the truth but it's often very apparent by just looking. This condition put major EXTRA forces on the suspensory and other tendons and ligaments and will often cause suspensory soreness that no one can quite figure out how to make go away. It also puts TONS of pressure on the P2 (short pastern) P3 (coffin bone) joint and guess what is right under that joint.... you guessed it.... the navicular bone!!!!! It can actually be squished up against the joint and become misshapen by the pressure on it. Many many cases of "navicular" (I use that term lightly 'cause many people call the many things that CAN go wrong there by one name, including vets). Just so long as you know 'navicular' can be any number of things happening in that particular area. Hopefully that will be enough info to help you talk to your farrier (and vet) about the condition of your horses feet a little. All of the above issues can be corrected or helped with REAL balanced trimming, more can be corrected with therapeutic shoeing except conformation but some of that can be even be fixed if caught when the horse is under a year old.

Horses are really pretty damn stoic, by design, and often there are little things about the feet that cause pain that they don't tell you about in an obvious way. They often opt for what we refer to as behavioral problems, many of which are little (or big) evasions. If you horses feet are properly balanced according to its individual conformation, it's amazing how many of these evasive behavioral issues will just fizzle away. You may not know it but if your horse's hooves are not balanced, they are probably slowly degenerating. Hoof imbalances can impair circulation to the hoof which, in turn, can cause bone and tissue degeneration, which can cause more circulation issues....vicious cycle. Eventually the horse can't help but show the pain and sometimes by the time he "tells" you, it's too late. He gets retired.

Not all farriers are created equal! Not all vets are either. (I have met plenty that are clueless as to the P1, P2, P3 alignment as well as lateral/medial imbalances, all of which can mold the bones and misshape them and it doesn't take as long as you think.) How do I know all this? The hard way. But with therapeutic shoeing, he is doing much, much better and it much happier and is moving better than he ever has. He will hopefully be balanced enough able to go barefoot again. (One proper trim is not gonna fix it. It takes time because the foot takes about one year to grow one full cycle.) Lo and behold, the horse that was given to me with the only half-joking nickname of Widowmaker is pretty happy these days.... and guess what, after 17 years of walking around like a banana shape (upside down, from ears to tail) the horse now rounds himself when he works. (But don't fret--he's still capable of calling out Mr. Hyde :-) but he has fewer reasons to do so.) Once we balanced the feet, THEN we worked on the training part. Lots of bending exercises and longeing (with side reins placed as close to the withers as possible, NOT down by the girth) to get him to step under and quit evading straightness, and even lots of riding time cutting across hills to keep the weak side uphill to force it to work. He's 23 and remolding the muscles is slow but progressive. The important thing is now he physically CAN.

Some cool references: Horseshoeing by Anton Lungwitz, translated by John Adams (a book). The Principles of Horseshoeing, 2nd or 3rd edition by Dr. Doug Butler (another book) Equinestudies.org (Dr. Deb Bennett, how to achieve straightness, see article "Lessons from Woody" at the minimum). SustainableDressage.com (really really nice section on tack as well as true vs. false collection).

I hope that help some of you and your horses out. Proper balance in the feet (based on the individual horses conformation, you must trim the WHOLE HORSE) does not matter if it's shod or barefoot. THAT is the core, whether you put shoes on or not after the balancing has been done properly, fine. There is soooooo much more to the story but that is a decent starting point I hope. No Hoof, No Horse.

Post Script: Even since taking my horse through the process of rebalancing his long out-of-balance feet, I have become intensely interested in hooves. I have since gotten all my mom's horses' feet balanced and we have a lot of much more comfortable happier horses now--and the young ones, well they aren't getting the chance to become imbalanced. They are much more fun to ride and teach things to! I continue to work with my vet AND farrier on other clients' horses documenting the progress they are making. Many, many of the clients report back that the horses are more willing and feel like they are moving more free and easy especially once their long toes are disposed of. My job is to watch horses, I am a pro equine photographer and I go to many many events. I can't help but look at feet now too, it's like an obsession and there are lots and lots of horses out there with problems. Hopefully this will inspire you, the horse owner, to take a good long look at your horses feet and ask questions of your farrier AND vet and take the time to educate yourself so you can make a good informed choices on who helps you care for your horse and give it longevity as well as many many comfortable days doing its job.





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