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[RC] Ponying - Ridecamp Guest

Please Reply to: Bonnie Snodgrass chicamuxen@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or 
ridecamp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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I've done a lot of ponying, having gotten some training with racehorses then 
finding a great way to start the youngsters on the trails. It also helps to get 
that second horse exercised!

First, the horse you ride, the pony, should neckrein and go well in either a 
shanked curb bit or a hackamore. You will be guiding this horse with one hand 
only and snaffles, kimberwickes, bits withoput shanks, just don't work well for 
one-handed riding. Also, your pony horse may get really strong and forward and 
be a royal pain in the $*%## to slow down. Get smart, expect the worst and use 
the right bit.

Next, that pony horse needs to work well off your legs, when you want to shift 
that horse to the left or right, turn on the haunches or do a leg yield. You 
need that horse to move over now, not later, not never, but now. Train your 
horse to respect your leg and possibly use a little stubby english spur. I do. 
It allows me to move the pony's hind end away from the bratty child that she 
feels like kicking!

That pony horse needs to be reliable, sane and brave. Period.

If you are going to pony a horse very often then teach it  to pony from both 
sides of the pony horse to prevent ending up with a crooked horse. The ponied 
horse quickly become crooked in the way they travel and will realize that when 
you start riding that crooked horse.

ALWAYS expect the worst. ALWAYS use something firm on the ponied horses head, 
like a stud chain wrapped over the nose, under the jaw and back up to the upper 
ring on the halter. A hard rope halter may work. There is an outstanding halter 
sold by Monty Roberts that works really well. At some point the ponied horse is 
going to pull back, bolt forward, sideways or everywhich way and you are going 
to get your arm pulled out of it's socket. My carpal tunnel syndrome just can't 
take that pulling stuff. Think about it, can you really outpull a 1000 lb horse 
that has planted it's feet while the horse you're riding keeps charging ahead? 
No. Use something that will get their attention and a little cooperation.

I actually preferr to use a good long leather lead shank with a long stud chain 
on it. The flat leather is less bulky than a round lead rope. Hard to find long 
ones.

ALWAYS wear gloves. Expect the worst. That horse can pull a rope thru your 
hands darn fast and I like to keep my skin thank you very much.

The lead (preferrably with a chain) should be attached on the side ring of the 
halter closest to you, not under the chin. That's the drawback to rope halters, 
they will twist on the horses head because the lead is under the chin and the 
ponied horse get a halter pulled across their eye on the far side.

Hold the shank about 18" from the halter, put the excess tail in your other 
hand looped back and forth,with your reins. NEVER coil a lead in your hand. 
Good way to detach your fingers.

Keep the ponied horses head next to your knee, unless they have to fall back 
behind you.

Your pony horse will get a rope under it's tail at some point. It will happen 
so train for it at home.

When changing gaits use your voice so the ponied horse gets a cue to speed up 
or slow down. He will not feel you squeezing the horse you are on.

Don't let the ponied horse creep ahead or have a longer lead. They can whirl 
and kick you and your pony horse so fast with just a little extra line. Be 
prepare for a narrow trail to widen out and take the slack out of the lead as 
the horse behind comes up past you. I learned this the hard way and got the 
horse I was on kicked in the stifle from being careless.

Have fun with this. I so enjoy taking both my horses out together. They are 
really a hoot together   but Brat Boy does like to nip the mare I ride. She 
knows to behave herself when she has pony horse duty so she just flinches. 
Watch those youngsters!

Bonnie Snodgrass


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