Endurance.Net Ridecamp Archives

Hi Debbie,

I agree that with your 4yo training is more important than a 
"bigger bit".   However, here are some kimberwicke thoughts:

The chain under the kimberwicke needs to be fairly tight... only 
2 fingers room under there.   This is actually kinder and gentler
than a very loose chain.

The purpose of the chain is to keep the bit from rotating too far.
A "port" in a solid bar kimberwicke is for tongue relief.   However,
you don't want the port to rotate into the roof of the mouth.   

The second action of a kimberwicke used on the "curb" slots is 
to rotate the bridle down behind the ears, causing a poll action.
You also don't want this to rotate too far and the chain again 
keeps the bit from rotating too far.   

The solid bar with port double slotted kimberwicke is actually 
a gentler bit than a broken "snaffle" kimberwicke.   The curb 
chain along with a split bar causes a nut cracker action on the 
jaw.   The solid bar won't do that. 

The curb chain also puts a bit of pressure under the jaw so a 
tight chain will cue faster than a loose one... and the timing of 
the cue is more important than the force of course.

A double slotted kimberwicke ridden on the top slots... or "snaffle"   
slots acts like a regular solid bar snaffle with no curb action at all. 
Thus the solid bar ported kimberwicke used properly is a fairly mild 
bit which, with a second set of reins, also gives the rider a solid 
curb bit if they find they need more action on their bit. 

Magnum the 'ol TB went quite well on a loose rein in his kimberwicke.
As I learned more about the bit and how to properly use it, I started 
to ride with 2 sets of reins... the curb reins just knotted over his 
withers.   I thought having a set of red reins for the curb would be 
a good idea.   ;-)   Of course he was an off the track ex-racer and thus 
the curb bit was important every once in a while, especially during 
his ongoing trail training.   A single cue on the curb with him could 
get more across to his TB pea brain than trying to circle him.   He 
understands the kimberwicke. 

I'd rather see him ridden this way, as he liked the bit and knew how 
to respond to it.   You can ride him on a loose rein in a kimberwicke.
However, I had a chat with the trainer who put him in a regular 
snaffle, but then cranked down a drop or flash noseband bridle to 
then keep him from running through it.   I think that a drop noseband 
or flash noseband bridle cranked down on a loose ring snaffle is 
more severe than just letting him go in a regular bridle with a regular 
well adjusted loose noseband and his kimberwicke.   I won't buy a 
bridle with a flash noseband, but finding a regular noseband leather 
bridle is tougher.   Just about everything you see these days has a 
flash noseband.   What's up with that?

There is quite a difference between an arab mouth and a TB mouth.
Blue doesn't have room for a regular snaffle so he goes in a 2 joint 
"french link" snaffle.   If there is no room in the mouth for even a low 
port on a kimberwicke, you will want to use a solid bar instead.   Check 
the bit of course if the horse is opening his mouth in response to rein 
cues.

Kathy Myers
in Santa Fe, NM
Haven't used the kimberwicke in years... Blue goes on a loose ring 
french link snaffle these days... but I do still have him in a running 
martingale for those exciting starts...