Ridecamp: Re: [RC] [RC] doing you rown hoof trimming

Trimming your own horse is actually quite simple. Trying to explain to
someone how to do it without the use of visual aids is almost
impossible. But I'll take a stab at it.

First you'll need some basic farrier's tools. A hoof pick, A good sharp
hoof knife, a pair of quality nippers, (GE or Diamond) a rasp (I prefer
Save Edge, Bellota is my next choice)  and a rasp handle. Don't try to
use a hoof rasp without a handle on it, it's dangerous either you or
your horse could end up being impaled by the tang on the end of it.

First pick the hoof clean, then using your hoofknife find the point of
attachment of the point of the frog. (where it attaches to the sole)
Then using your hoofknife find where the heel attaches to the frog. (You

can cut quite a bit of exfoliating material away here without causing
the horse to bleed. But be careful!) Trim the frog up nicely to a
triangular wedge shaped looking thingy with smooth straight lines all
the way to the bottom of the commissures. (The groove between the sole
and the frog) Be sure to open the commissars at the heels as the allows
the hoof to "Clean Itself" as the horse travels. Also reduces the chance

of the hoof trapping pebbles and small rocks between the frog and heel
buttress. Next pare away the exfoliating sole material at the toe of the

hoof until you obtain a smooth shiny surface. This is live sole
material. Normally it is a 1/16 to an 1/8 of an inch in thickness. Now
pare away a straight line from where the point of the frog attaches to
the sole and the live sole material at the toe. Continue this angle all
the way around the hoof. You'll see how the sole grows in layers while
paring, use the layers as guideline for the paring process. If your in
doubt as to whether or not you've pared the sole too thin you can check
by grabbing the hoof with both hands, Press firmly on the sole of the
hoof with both thumbs as hard as you can just ahead of the point of the
frog, If it gives under firm pressure, DON'T PARE ANY THINNER.

If you study the bottom of the hoof after the sole has been pared to a
uniform thickness, you'll see a line about 1/4" in from the outside edge

of the hoofwall, it will be a yellowish color, this is the white line.
Why it's called that is anybody's guess since it's actually yellow. You
should be able to see it clearly all around the circumference of the
hoof if you've done a good job paring down the sole. To leave the horse
barefoot we will to the outside border of the whiteline. If we would be
applying shoes to the hoof we would trim the wall to the inside border
of the whiteline. Place your nipper blades at the toe to the outside
border of the whiteline, Make sure they are cutting a line parallel to
the hoof's ground surface, Both side to side and front to back. Once you

make your cut move the nipper blades 1/2 of the blade width to the side
of this cut, Using the previous cut as a guide for making the next.
Continue this until you have gone around one half  of the hoof to the
heel. Then go back to the toe and trim the other side if the hoof using
the same technique.

Once this is done you'll want to check the hoof balance in relationship
to the average of the horizontal plane of which the joints in the lower
leg open and close. The ground surface of the hoof should be parallel to

this. This assures even weight distribution across the joints in the leg

during the bearing phase of the horse's stride. Also make sure the toe
length is short enough, For a barefoot horse the average I've found to
be is a length of 3" to 3 1/4". Some of the smaller Arabians I've
trimmed to 2 3/4" toe length. (This saves wear and tear on the deep
flexor tendon)

To rasp the hoof level, While looking at the bottom, divide the hoof
into four sections. (As if cutting a pie into four pieces) Remove the
high spots from one of the front quarters, then the other front quarter,

then one of the heel quarters, (Being extra careful not to undercut the
heel) Then finally the other heel quarter. When this is done place the
horses hoof on your knee and thin the hoofwall at the toe to 1/2 of it's

normal thickness. (This is done because a barefoot horse traveling 25 to

50 miles a day between food and water as wild mustangs do daily, through

varied terrain and soil conditions would have this occur from normal
wear) Once this is done round the edge of the hoof to a nice circular
radius, this will help prevent any unwanted chipping.

Congratulations! You've just successfully trimmed one of your horses
hooves, Only three more to go. If response is great enough I guess I can

put together a video for those of you who want to trim your own horses.
It might sound complicated but it's really not. If it was I wouldn't be
able to do it as successfully as I've been able to. Also if your
anything like myself if there's no pictures I don't have a clue as to
what all those words just said.

Rob

Rob Kalb
Rob's Equine Hoof Care
Phelan CA


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