Riding with Ghosts of the Past

by Genie Stewart-Spears

Endurance Riders live to Ride; for some, the ultimate event is a 5-day, 285-mile competition called the New Mexico Renegade Ride. Beginning near La Union, a small community on the outskirts of El Paso, Texas, competitors traverse 3 mountain ranges, high desert country, and open ranges before reaching their final destination, the ghost town of Shakespeare, near the Arizona border. Held annually in March, this event attracts 30 to 60 riders each year.

"The New Mexico Renegade Ride is truly a step back in time," states ride manager, real estate broker Randy Eiland. "It's the Old West the way it used to be. This ride is over a remote, rugged part of the country where the trails haven't changed since the renegades of 150 years ago rode them."

This year, 37 competitors started Day One, a 55-mile trail. Leaving the Spur C Ranch, the riders travel over an area called the Badlands and across high desert. Progress is punctuated by stops at the cow tanks, usually the only water available for the horses on the trail.

Among this year's competitors was 51-year-old Marilyn R. Russell, a high school teacher who has over 8,000 career miles in endurance. "I love the multiday rides because of the sane pace. Unlike 1-day 50-mile rides, which are just too fast any more, you can set your own pace and feel like you've accomplished something at the end of the day ... no matter how you finish."

Last year, Russell's enthusiasm was crushed when the mare she was riding tied-up 10 miles into the first day's ride. "I spent 3 long, harrowing hours watching my horse as she lay on the ground; all the while I felt I was going to have to bury her right there." Every passing rider paused to offer assistance, moral support, and their water bottles, and 2 riders stayed with Russell until Dr. Merrilee Laas, one of the 2 ride veterinarians, was able to bring Russell's mare back to her feet; fortunately, the mare recovered completely.

"One of the reasons I came back this year was to complete what I'd started last year," Russell continues. "And I love the history surrounding the Renegade Ride - there's something spirtual about being in touch with the land and feeling the ghosts of past history.

The trail to the first vet check on the Harrington Ranch, where only ruins remain of the old homestead, was made by the U.S. Cavalry and by ranchers driving cattle to stockyards along the railway. As a matter of fact, before reaching the first vet check, the riders cross the Southern Pacific railroad tracks where, a local legend has it, Old Man Harrington was shot and killed. As the story goes, a Mexican family lived by the railroad station and kept dogs that caused trouble every time the cattle were brought in for shipping. Harrington told the Mexican family to get rid of the dogs or he'd shoot them the next time he came to the shipping yard. However, the dogs were still there when Harrington returned. As he pulled his rifle out to shoot the dogs, the wife thought Harrington was aiming at her husband. To save her husband, she fired a shot through the window of their adobe, which struck and killed Harrington.

Although the Harrington Vet Check is a 1-hour hold, few riders have time to explore the area. Their horses must pass the veterinary exam and be fed, watered, and cared for before setting out for the day's finish line, another 30 miles away. Even so, everyone marvels at how people could live on such harsh land.

"You wonder why in the world we fought the Apaches for this land, and why they fought so hard to keep it," says rider manager Randy Eiland. "However, if you know what to look for, almost everything out here has some life-sustaining use. I read somewhere about an old Indian who, looking out over the badlands, said, 'There's enough food stuff here to sustain my tribe for 6 months.' This is the same terrain we see and say, 'How could anyone or anything survive?' It is all in knowing what is there and how to use it - one of the biggest reasons why the Cavalry had such a difficult time controlling the Apaches. The Apaches know how to exist on the harsh land."

From Harrington Ranch, the riders continue on Cavalry trails, past several cow tanks and a natural water hole, before starting their ascent over the Potrillo Mountains. The trail rises from 4108 feet on the desert floor to about 5105 feet as the riders crest the mountain and begin their descent to the desert floor on the other side. It's slow going because of the rocky, loose footing and the cactus-studded terrain.

As the trail turns northwest, the competitors come within a mile of an ancient Indian trading site. "Most of the pottery that is found in New Mexico, " explains Eiland, "is red with black designs. However , in this area you sometimes find white pottery with brown or black designs which was made by the Mimbrenos Indians."

The remains of the original Cox ranch - a vacant stone house, holding pens, and windmill, built more than 100 years ago - mark the finish line of Day One. All 37 starters finished, with Bob Wenzel, a charismatic white-haired gentleman from Sante Fe, coming in first and claiming the Best Condition award on his Arabian gelding, Gilbriar Gdandy, with a ride time of 4 hours and 31 minutes.

Day Two, a 60-mile trail, began as usual with the riders moving out at a relaxed walk to warm the horses up for a few miles or so before increasing the pace and spreadiing out along the trail, which is strewn with small, abrasive lava rocks; not surprisingly, the area is known as the Malpais (badlands). The riders stopped for water near an old railroad caboose, miles from any tracks, which was probably used as a line shack for some cowpoke. The trail then takes the riders through the Mimbres River Basin area and heads toward the vet check at the POL (Plumb Out of Luck) Ranch.

Unfortunately, the hot sun and grueling trail took its toll - 7 of the 37 who started Day Two were disqualified either for lameness or poor recovery; and many of those who passed the check slowed their pace as they left the POL. The front runners, however, made their bid for the win, and at the finish line, Sharon Dumas edged out Suzy Kelley by 4 minutes, and Bob Wenzel by 9 minutes. Dumas' ride time was 5 hours and 46 minutes; with Wenzel's horse, Gilbriar Gdandy, again winning the Best Condition award.

That night, camp was at Columbus, a small village made briefly famous when Pancho Villa attacked it in 1916. Although there's a population of only 150 people, it's a welcome stopover because it has 2 restaurants, a grocery, a motel, and a bed & breakfast. After the horses are cared for and bedded down for the night, the riders get slicked up and cross the border to Palomas, Mexico, for dinner and dancing.

Because of the previous night's celebration, Day Three began an hour later than usual. The 34 competitors assumed a relaxed pace as they paralleled the U.S./Mexican border for the next 16 miles, waving at the occasional Mexican traveling down the dirt border road.

After passing the Vet Check on the large Johnson Ranch, the trail offers vistas of brilliant yellow poppies, while climbing the rocky Carazalillo Mountains to an elevation of 5285 feet. In the foothills on the west side of the Carazalillos, the riders cross the Copper Trail, once used to transport copper, gold, and silver between Silver City, New Mexico, and Chihuahua, Mexico. The Apaches, too, used the Copper Trail - to raid villages and rob travelers of both U.S. and Mexico, and then trade their stolen goods for mescale, clothing, and other items needed for survival.

The riders took advantage of several cow tanks before reaching base camp at the Victorio Ranch. Once again, Sharon Dumas won the day's ride with a time of 5 hours and 15 minutes, and her horse, OT Kid Curry, won Best Condition. Marilyn McCoy on Rusty HCC was next to finish, 38 minutes later, mere seconds ahead of Suzy Kelley on Katies Image. Only 2 horses were unable to complete the 60-mile course.

A number of ghost towns - dusty reminders of the days when mining operations flourished in the area after the Indians were defeated - can be found all along the 285-mile Renegade Ride course, and one of these is Old Hatchita, established in 1868. The town died when New Hatchita (current population 45) was built next to the railroad track, just 3 miles away.

Day Four brings a 55-mile trail that turns west again along the U.S./Mexico border, then travels through the Cedar mountains, and continues on through the Hatchita Valley, eventually crossing the Big Hatchet Ranch (the setting for Louis L'Amour's novel, "Shalako"). Keen eyes can sometimes spot desert big horn sheep and other wildlife which roam Big Hatchet Mountain, a wildlife preserve.

The end of the day's ride is Mangold Well, located on the Hurt Ranch at the base of the Coyote Hills. Sharon Dumas got a hat trick with her time of 5 hours and 22 minutes, the day's fastest; Marilyn McCoy's horse, Rusty HCC, claimed the Best Condition Award.

That evening at camp, the riders hosted an unexpected visitor: Jim Mayfield, owner of the nearby Bartolio-Merrell Ranch. Mayfield asked if he could reroute the next day's trail, since he had cows calving in a pasture the riders were scheduled to pass through. "The local ranchers graciously give permission for the riders to cross their vast land holdings," Eiland explains, "and several have even helped us by pointing out trails which pass by historic spots or offer picturesque views. Jim Mayfield's excellent job of remarking our trail, taking riders through a grassland area with several water tanks, is just one example of how the ranchers cooperate with us and support our ride."

On the final day, 34 competitors slowly snaked their way over the rocky Coyote Hills, climbing 575 feet in elevation from base camp. After crossing the Continential Divide, the trail winds cross-country to a vet check on the Justin Kipp Ranch, then travels toward POW Road. Eiland explains how this road got its name: "During World War II, there was a POW camp out there. You can well imagine that the German soldiers must have thought they'd gone to hell in that desolate country!"

This final part of the trail meanders through poppy-covered hillsides and passes through Rock House Canyon before following a section of the Butterfield Stage route into the well preserved ghost town of Shakespeare. The town's history is intriguing ... but shady. "It seems someone salted the mines with diamonds to convince the Ralston family from California to purchase the town," said Eiland, "and a lot of money ended up changing hands for diamond mines that never existed! Jana Loo Hill, who inherited the town and surrounding land from her ranching parents, Frank and Rita Hill, was responsible for changing the course of Interstate 10. This highway was originally slated to go right through Shakespeare - but Ms. Hill stood guard over the town with a shotgun for 2 years!"

Every year, Ms. Hill graciously greets the weary but elated riders as they bring their horses into the streets of Shakespeare for the final vetting. Bob Wenzel was the first rider in this year, with Jerry Barfield just seconds behind. Their ride time was 4 hours and 49 minutes, and Wenzel's horse, Gilbriar Gdandy, also won the Best Condition award. Sharon Dumas led 2 riders - Marilyn McCoy and Suzy Kelley - across the finish line 2 minutes later.

Among the last riders to cross the finish line were Eric and Sue Bauer, a junior competitor and his mother, whose ride time was 9 hours and 12 minutes. Eric and his sister Alyssa (who finished 17 minutes earlier than her brother on the last day) were 2 of 4 junior riders who completed all 5 days on the same horses (44 hours and 21 minutes for Eric; 44 hours and 4 minutes for Alyssa).

Two of the adult riders who also completed the entire course on the same horse were Sue Bauer and Deb Vietor.

Pat Wasmund completed 4 of the 5 days on her 21-year-old half-Arabian mare, Ka Shonda, a 4-time National Competitive Trail Ride Champion in the North American Trail Riders Conference (NATRC) organization. "This ride taught me a lot," says the 51-year-old Wasmund. "Increased respect for my horse, for the land, and for the Apaches who lived here."

In contrast with last year's misfortune, Marilyn Russell placed 5th overall for the 5 days on the same horse - the 11-year-old mare, Cougars Silmaril (Cougar Rock x Rushcreek Fraga). Why would anyone want to ride 285 miles in 5 days? "For the sheer joy of riding," answers Russell. "There's just something about getting away from all the mundane problems and the back-biting and violence in the world. Out there on the trail, the world becomes safe and friendly. Like the pioneers struggling west in search of a new life, the crews and riders work harmoniously to achieve the same goal. It's humanity as it should be. More people should be doing endurance!"

[ Back ]