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Re: Hoof Help



 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Porter <horseshoe@jps.net>
To: Jim Porter <horseshoe@jps.net>
Date: Friday, October 01, 1999 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Hoof Help

 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Porter <horseshoe@jps.net>
To: ridecamp@endurance.net <ridecamp@endurance.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: Hoof Help

    Cindy,
  Sorry to read about your thrown shoe dilemma.
St. Croix Eventers is also my shoe of choice, but
you forgot to mention, if your farrier clipped the shoes.
  When feet are as broken-up as you described, clips take
the strain off the nails, especially with pads.
   As far as silicone goes, I don't think it is hoof friendly.
I believe  it keeps the sole in a constant sweat, and creates
soft soles, to the point, that if the horse did'nt particulary need
pads before, it would now.
  If I was shoeing a horse, with this problem, I would
approach it as so;
  Shoe the horse full, with a shoe big enough,to fit the foot,
enabling the nail holes to be outside the live white line.
Hopefully this way, one can still get a good high nail line,
even though, there isn't much to nail to. Usually, when a
horse throws a shoe, and breaks the foot up, as you described, the nails were driven too shallow in the first place.
  Next, I would draw side-clips on the shoe, where they
would do the most good, spoon the heels slightly to ensure
the horse won't step on them. Then I'd throw the shoes
back into the fire, to a light cherry-red, take them out and
put concavity into them . That way, you can be rest-assured,
theres no   sole pressure. Put'em back in the fire, to a 
dull heat, level the shoe, take the shoe to the horse and
seat it in to the hoof.
   The next step would be to rivit the heel of the pads to the
heel of the shoe. That way, theres no doubt that the  pad stays secure from the last nail hole to the heel.
  then I'd nail it on, and clinch the nails with the hammer &
clinch block method, instead of using clinchers, insuring
that the clinches' are "kissed-over", instead of being pulled
down, taking precious wall with the nail.
  Next, wire-brush and acetone the foot to remove dirt and
residual oils. Making sure the hoof is clean & dry, I would
than proceed to fill in the gaps and spaces between the
shoe and foot withEQUITHAN( a semi-ridgid hoof acrylic),
before the EQUITHAN completely set up, set the side clips
into it. Afterwards,smoothly rasp and feather it to the foot.
   Than I'd stuff between the pad and sole a mixture of
pine-tar & oakum, using an old flat bastard file.( Does any-
one know how that poor file got its' name?)
  WALLAH, you've got new, happy feet.
    Hope this helps, sorry it's so long.
                              So long,
                            horseshoe@jps.net


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