Re: New to Nutrition

Duncan Fletcher (dfletche@gte.net)
Thu, 16 Jan 1997 16:53:00 -0800

Great post Wendy. I would only caution that horses (particularly those idle or in light
work) may not consume that much hay (even with no grain). For example, my guys are
doing well on 12 lb/day. But like you, the hay will go up before I feed grain.

Duncan Fletcher
dfletche@gte.net

Wendy Milner wrote:
>
> Within this forum, we tend to get into discussion about the
> "best" feed, best suppliment, best of everything. Best is
> an opinion. For the new riders, read what is writtin, but
> don't worry that you are screwing up if you don't do everything,
> or even anything that is written in the forum.
>
> To determin what your horse needs, take a critical look at your
> horse, and at what you do with your horse.
>
> Weight - Is your horse at the perfect weight? Too heavy? Too skinny?
> Digestion - Is your horse digesting most of his food? Or too little?
> Work - Are you increasing the amount of work your horse does? Is this
> affecting the horse's weight?
>
> The basics for all horses is good hay, lots of water, and access to salt.
> After that, everyone has an opinion.
>
> If your horse is the perfect weight, you must be doing something right.
> Don't start screwing it up by adding a bunch of stuff you might not
> need. If your horse is heavy (can you run you hand along his sides
> and not feel any ribs no matter how hard you press?), a bit of a diet
> and a bit more work is in order. If your horse is too skinny (can
> you see the ribs all the time?), you need to add calories and make
> sure the horse is getting all the nutrients from the food.
>
> [Isn't this easy so far?]
>
> If the horse is not maintaining body weight, first check the horse.
>
> * Teeth? Are they good and free of spurs? You might want to float
> the teeth. If the horse is really old, or had some teeth kicked out,
> you may need to skip hay and move to a mushy feed that doesn't need
> teeth.
>
> * Worms? Do you have the horse on a routine to de-worm regularly?
> At least 4 times a year, if you are on a clean pasture. More if
> you are in a messy stall, or with horses that are not wormed regularly.
>
> * Over all health? Have the vet check out the horse. You need a
> healthy horse to participate in this sport.
>
> HAY
>
> A horse needs about 2-3 % of its body weight in hay each day.
> So, a 1000 pound horse needs 20 to 30 pounds of hay. [You *are*
> weighing your hay, aren't you?] At least weigh the hay a few times
> to get the feel of how much you are feeding. If the horse has
> free access to pasture, it is more difficult to determine the quantity
> of feed.
>
> Hay should be grass hay for the most part. It should be good quality.
> No mold, weeds, stickers, or dust.
>
> GRAIN
>
> Corn, barely, oats, and other grains can be added to the horses diet
> as needed to maintain weight and add vitamines and minerals. The order
> listed above is the order of calories with corn having the most, but
> also being considered a "hot" feed, and oats having the least of the
> three.
>
> Studies of top endurance riders show that they feed between 3 and 10
> pounds of grain per day. Some don't feed any.
>
> SUPPLIMENTS
>
> There are so many suppliments that you don't know what to do.
> Consider the suppliments for people. There are suppliments to add
> weight, loose weight, get more energy, calm down the kids, and add
> vitamins and minerals in so many different mixes anyone would be confused.
> The same is true for horses.
>
> Endurance horses need electrolytes at rides. That is about the only
> given. All other suppliments depend on what your individual horse
> needs.
>
> Carrots and apples are frequent suppliments also:-)
>
> OIL
>
> Oil is a suppliment that in some endurance horses is needed because
> they are working much more than their capacity to take in food.
> Oil has mega calories.
>
> WEIGHT
>
> No you don't need to know the exact weight of your horse. It's fun though.
>
> If your horse is over weight (rare in endurance horses), try working
> a bit more. Then get rid of the extras. Reduce hay last. Make
> changes gradually.
>
> If your horse is perfect, don't change a thing.
>
> If your horse is under weight, or starts loosing weight as you get
> more into training, do the following, in order.
>
> * Increase the good grass hay till you find the horse is leaving
> some behind at each meal.
>
> * Add grain to the diet. Which one(s) depends on your horse and what
> is available locally. Start with a pound per feeding. Do not
> go over 10 pounds per day.
>
> * Add oil to the diet. Start with 1/4 a cup over grain. You can also
> buy a high fat feed. You can slowly increase the amount of oil to
> about 1 cup per feeding. Over feeding of oil with show itself by
> a runny stool, and an oily rear end.
>
> * If you think you need a suppliment, read all about it. Just what
> are the claims - read the fine print. Read what is in the suppliment.
> And ask around. Determine why you want to feed any suppliment.
> Then pick the suppliment that does what you want.
>
> Once you are pushing the limits of what you think a horse can do,
> all the nitty gritty details of feeding become very important.
> But for most of us, doing the good old basics of nutrition will
> get the most from our horses right now.
>
> Have fun:-)
> --
> Wendy
>
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